Dates: 8 - 19 March 2012Start/end: Lukla (2860m)
High points: Everest Base Camp (5340m), Kala Patar (5550m)
While the primary goal of the walk to Everest Base Camp is to have great views and to see the world's highest mountain up close, this trek had something not just for the eyes but for all the senses.
Touch
As I was running out of time in Nepal, I did what the majority of trekkers now do by flying to Lukla to start the trek from there. Although I'm not a nervous flyer, that flight from Kathmandu in a 14-seater plane, where the cabin crew handed out cotton wool to use as earplugs, is not one I'd like to do too often. The amazing mountain views out my window failed to distract me from what I could see by looking straight ahead through the cockpit's window. Lukla's short runway, which slopes at a 12 degree angle upwards, starts at the top of a cliff, and it looked from my angle that we were flying straight for that cliff-face! It was with a great sense of relief that I hopped from the plane and felt my feet touch the runway's surface. It certainly was a memorable start being the first time that I began a trek straight off an airplane.
TasteJust as during my Annapurna trek, the fuel that got me to Everest Base Camp and back was porridge for breakfast, vegetable noodle soup (sometimes with delicious fried Tibetan bread), and that Nepali staple of dhal bhat for dinner. While having rice (bhat), lentils (dhal), and curried vegetables everyday sounds monotonous, the greatness of dhal bhat is twofold: firstly, it is always a bit different, leading to the popular trekkers' conversation of "where was your best dhal bhat?" (for the record, mine was in Tengboche and it is pictured below); secondly, it is customary to give a full second helping, which is exactly what is needed after a day of strenuous walking.
HearingThe two classic sounds heard while trekking in Nepal are prayer flags flapping in the wind
and the ringing of the bells tied around yaks' necks. Using yaks and porters (men, women and children) to transport heavy goods on their backs remains commonplace.
But now the sound of yak bells is at times drowned out by helicopters - the goods brought in by helicopter are much appreciated by us Western trekkers, but yaks make for better photos.
The most memorable sound for me of the whole trek is the deep groaning sound made by the glacier at Base Camp. It gave a hint of the awesome power of nature. If I had had any desire to one day climb to the summit of Mt. Everest (I don't think I ever had, but I certainly haven't since reading "Into Thin Air" - a book that is omnipresent in Nepal's tourist areas), that glacier's threatening grumble would have made me seriously question the wisdom of such an ambition.
A less awe-inspiring and hopefully more forgettable sound that featured heavily on this trek was that of sleeping trekkers farting. It was unfortunate that the bedroom walls were usually only plywood given the effect of all those lentils.Smell
Speaking of smells, personal hygiene is low on the list of trekkers' priorities here. Lodges charge for warm water and the idea of a bucket shower or trying to wash and dry clothes given how cold it is out of direct sunlight isn't appealing. Lets just say that when I went to the monastery in Tengboche, where trekkers had to leave their boots at the door and enter in socks, I was impressed that the monks were able to maintain focus on their chanting.
SightSmelly socks were a small price to pay for the experience of getting to Base Camp and of looking at Mount Everest from atop Kala Patar. I generally had sunny, clear skies throughout the five days that I worked my way up (given my recent Annapurna trek I was able to skip the acclimatisation rest days so I got from Lukla to Base Camp quicker that most people).
Then on the final push to Base Camp, the clouds closed in, the wind picked up, and it started to snow. This all gave the experience an "epic expedition" quality, which I was actually quite happy with.
Besides, the views from Base Camp itself aren't as good as from nearby Kala Patar, so getting to Base Camp is all about just getting there (by the way, there was nothing there at this time of year). Thankfully the clouds cleared during the night, so at 5am, with altitude-induced shortness of breath, I slogged up Kala Patar. The sight of Mount Everest close-up, as well as the 360 degree panorama of mountains and glaciers, was simply stunning. When freezing hands forced my temporary trekking partner to return to the relative warmth of the lodge, I had the top of Kala Patar and the views all to myself. Given that the number of people who do this trek every year is into the tens of thousands, I was incredibly lucky to be alone with such perfect views.
Again, going without a guide and/or porter worked out just fine as I was able to go at my own pace and at this stage I'm well used to carrying my own rucksack. Apart from the two big days when I got to Base Camp and Kala Patar when I teamed up with other independent trekkers, I tended to walk alone. Then most evenings I met and chatted with interesting people (and I generally managed to avoid the guesthouses filled with large, guided groups).It was a great eleven days and I count myself a lucky man to have had the chance to enjoy this experience.
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